Archive for February, 2009
Fade in
Thursday, February 26th, 2009Haven’t seen a single bike, but the piles of shiny cars are nauseating.
Yes, a land of sky scrapers and shopping malls. And sand. It feels empty.
But Abu Dhabi is also surprisingly mixed. Ethiopians, Jordanians, Indians, Pakistanis, Philippinos, Palestines, Europeans, and all sorts mingle in every place. It’s quite extraordinary. I don’t stick out at all, which is wonderful, and there’s a quiet sense of wonder, sort of like I’ve wandered into a Star Wars world full of people and cultures I’ve never encountered up close before.
Clothing ranges from jeans and t-shirts to traditional dishdasha. I think the strangest combination I’ve seen is a dishdasha with a baseball cap, which is actually pretty common. Women range from tank tops to veils, scarves, and coverings of all sorts. I try not to stare at the women with complete face veils that only reveal their eyes. These women are so elegant, mysterious, and striking it makes me think that they seem like much more of a temptation than if they were wearing mini-skirts.
Women wearing niqabs in photographs can look stifled, but to me, they look powerful when they move, when they walk.
Last night, I was at the grocery store in the pads aisle (I accidentally left my cup in the states…grrr…) and one of those elegant women with a niqab rolled her shopping cart up, grabbed a package of pads and rolled away again. It was a very “I guess we’re all human” moment. I’m sorry, I know it’s not that extraordinary, but what do I know, I’m just a boorish American…
Random fact: The Arabic weekend is Friday-Saturday, so the workweek here is Sun-Thurs.
Right, so I’m here for Masdar, and while they build the university, we’re ironically housed at the Petroleum Institute. All the Masdar folk have their own corner in one of the buildings. But when we go to the cafeteria for lunch and walk through other Petroleum Institute buildings bustling with PI students and faculty, I really feel like we should start snapping and break into a West Side Story scuffle complete with singing and dancing.
Hair
Tuesday, February 24th, 2009Recently, I've become kind of frustrated with my hair. I don't know what to do with it besides let it grow. So I just let it get longer and longer.
So, I think I should shave my head at the equator because
a) it is a long-standing maritime tradition to shave your head when "crossing the line". Crossing the equator for the first time is a rite of passage for sailors.
b) it will grow back.
c) I will probably never have another excuse to shave my head ever again.
d) I might like it.
e) everyone else is doing it.
Mostly, I really like the idea of the experience of shaving my head but am afraid that I will be less than pleased with the consequences. So I assure myself that it will grow back. I think this is a good plan.
If we don’t have something original to say, we won’t.
Sunday, February 22nd, 2009I’m on Twitter
Wednesday, February 18th, 2009I’m now on Twitter. Follow @tostie to keep up with my tweets.
“Under the Boardwalk” is also now on Twitter (@monopolydoc) with shooting and travel updates.
A Tribute to Fallen Sodas | Gunaxin
Tuesday, February 17th, 2009Alien Orphan
Wednesday, February 11th, 2009So...I had this master plan to quietly wrap up my business in Boston and then clandestinely steal away to the UAE. And, then, last week (oh man, I can't believe this) Amy Smith and Ben Linder (and other suspect folk) organized a suprise going away party. It was TRIPLE BACKFLIP FANTASTIC. Using all sorts of very clever deception, Amy managed to take me (completely unsuspecting) to the Museum of Bad Art where dozens of my favorite people lay stealthily in wait to shock the buhjeezus out of me. There were so many awesome people there, I nearly exploded and imploded at the same time (good thing F=0...you know, the forces balanced out?) A ton of good food, ten megatons of good company, it was glorious. When I set out to work for Amy Smith a couple years ago, I never in my wildest dreams imagined she'd eventually throw a surprise party for me. I'm still pretty stunned. And glowing. Thank you thank you thank you to everyone who made it possible.
But the happiness in general isn't really the super sweet jagged roller coaster kind that pops up for a few moments. No, this happiness is the sustained, quiet kind that sloshes contentedly inside my ribcage. I don't recall ever being this content before. Life is very good.
Laundryroom Twitter
Friday, February 6th, 2009
Saw this list of Twitter uses the other day; kudos to Olin for the top spot (though the list might be unranked) for the 3rd-Floor West Hall laundryroom Twitter agent. Anyone familiar with this know how it works? I don’t remember how the LaundryView system works, but if I recall correctly, there’s e-mail functionality. It’d be interesting to learn more. Reply in comments if you’ve got the details.
Olive Harvest in Provence
Thursday, February 5th, 2009Three days before I was supposed to fly out back to Amsterdam, I got an email from a place in Provence that I had exchanged emails with a couple of months before asking me if I still wanted to come since the harvest had gone on longer than they thought and they still needed people. At the time I was at the sucky British place and was gunshy about going to a place with boring work like we were doing then or that was completely devoid of French culture like that place was and something that the woman I was emailing with said made me think it might be like it so I sort of made up an excuse and said I couldn’t go. However, seeing as I still didn’t even know what I was doing on the day I was arriving into Europe, I jumped at the chance to have a plan, even if for a couple weeks so I booked a ryan-air ticket down to Marseille and the rest, as they say, is history.
It’s hard to explain my experience there since it turned out to be a bit of an emotional roller coaster. I spent the first few days there happier than I had been in weeks. The weather was great, the countryside was absolutely beautiful, the work was relatively easy but fulfilling, the people were nice and authentically French and the food was the best I’ve had at a WWOOFing place so far. There was no internet or phone and I didn’t even mind. It was awesome and I was having an awesome time. The lady was really nice and went out of her way to buy me little things and she gave us a little money on the weekends. Harvesting olives was pretty fun at first (it got a bit old after a while), I got to climb around in trees which reminded me of when I was a kid and would go cherry picking with my grandfather. The worst part was getting poked in the eyes by the olives leaves all the time or having an olive fall right in your eye which would happen often. I’m half-surprised I didn’t go blind. In the beginning we didn’t have to use the machine so we could just work at a relaxed pace and there was an older guy who was WWOOFing there as well and he had a lot of interesting stories to tell so that was fun.
However a few days in, a relatively minor thing happened related to transgenderism (see my post on being stealth abroad for more details) that sent me into a complete reversal of emotion. I got back on the happy horse after a couple days but then I started having lots of misunderstandings with my host about little things. I didn’t come to dinner at the right time. I didn’t call to let them know I would be a bit later one time. I tried to say the food was good and had an interesting taste and she was insulted, etc. It’s definitely been the most unsure I’ve been about where I stood with the people to date. I felt sure they were thinking good riddance when I was leaving but then she insisted on giving me 10 euros for lunch on the train so I don’t know. Overall nice people and a nice place though and I’m glad I went there.
Update on being stealth abroad
Thursday, February 5th, 2009Update on being stealth abroad:
Well, as I wrote before, I’ve continued to not disclose information about being trans to my WWOOFing hosts or, except for a few instances, to my fellow WWOOFers for the same reasons as before.
All told, it’s been mostly uneventful (except for one incident that I recount below) despite the relatively little effort that I put into being stealth. For one, I don’t bind (use a frog bra –I’m a B/C cup so it’s definitely noticeable if you look closely but doesn’t really stand out enough to warrant inspection). I do make an effort to wear loose fitting clothing and dark colors though. I don’t make any effort to conform to stereotypical masculine behaviors beyond what I naturally do, nor do I hide my active interest/involvement in the LGBT community or in the women’s rights movement. I allude to being in a special category when conversations about human rights, religion, politics, etc. come up. Like I might say, “Well, I would go to visit China but some people there want to make people like me illegal so it’s not on the top of my list” and if pressed for a definition of “people like me” I usually just shrug and grunt or say something like “I’m just special like that.”
A little piece of me flexes in anticipation every time I mention playing rugby in college, thinking that certainly the idea of a 5′5” 140 lbs guy playing flanker (the equivalent of a tight end in football I believe –basically it’s one of the more badass positions where you need to be big and/or strong) or even playing rugby at all (or basketball, which I also played) will require further explanation but nope, never once. I brought my own work gloves, half-thinking it would be a good idea because maybe my small hands would “give me away” but I’ve had to borrow galoshes at every place I’ve been with no problem beyond the occasional “wow, your feet are smaller than my 11 year old daughter’s” (I wear a men’s size 5) comment. One heart stopping moment, I was even walked in on stark naked by one of the children. I still don’t know what happened with that one to be honest. I was sure I would have some explaining to do there as the child was old enough to know the difference and got a long look as she refused to close the door at first when I asked her to but it didn’t seem to phase her and I never heard a word about it after that beyond an apology by the parents on her behalf.
I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion that people are mostly unobservant about those types of things if they don’t feel they have a reason to be and even if they do observe something that arouses some suspicion, transgenderism is going to be the last thing on their minds, if they even know what it is in thee first place.
The hardest part, by far, for me has been feeling unsure of how to respond to negative comments and/or generalizations about women and transpeople. The comments about women happen frequently and I have no problem responding as a feminist and stating my opinion on whatever it is in regards to being concerned about remaining stealth, but it’s difficult for me because I’m still dealing with my own issues concerning those things. Like if someone says something like “girls are so emotional” I feel myself torn. My belief in feminism leads me to want to disagree or at least add a qualifier but my personal experiences as a man lead me towards wanting to chuckle in acknowledgement. And on top of that, I think, well I was (or was not) that way when I was living as a woman, does that count as anecdotal evidence or not? So I definitely sometimes feel a bit of turmoil when those types of things come up but I feel that anyway usually, being stealth just makes me wonder if they would think I was trying to deceive them if I do/say one thing or another and then later they find out about my being trans.
As far as negative comments/generalizations about trans people, that’s only happened once but it was absolutely devastating to me at the time and my worst trans experience while traveling so far. It definitely wasn’t even that bad really, I guess I was just feeling so confident and comfortable after months of successfully living stealth that it really stunned me. For anyone who might be interested in what happened, to make a long story short, while joking and watching this effeminate man dancing horribly with one of my fellow WWOOFers, he made a comment to the effect of “I think this guy wants to be a girl or something,” to which I replied, while laughing “well, there’s nothing wrong with that.” He responded by saying he didn’t agree and when I asked why, he said “well if you are one, I won’t be like pissed off, but I don’t think it’s right in the head. It’s just…not right.” Maybe it was what I perceived to be the tone of disgust in his voice, or the fact that I was high at the time, or the fact that I had felt so comfortable with him and sure he would be cool with it that I had almost come out to him randomly a few hours before that, but I was so shocked and hurt I couldn’t manage to say anything but “ok” in response and if I would have been able to (thanks testosterone), I would have probably started crying. I spent the next couple days in turmoil about whether it was better to stand up for myself and the trans community and not let him get away with such a blatantly ignorant comment or whether I should be prudent and protect my own privacy and emotional vulnerability in the face of an opinion that was likely set in stone for the moment in a place that was 5 miles from the nearest road with no phone and no internet. I ultimately decided to just continue on as before and not hold it against him because I felt it was based on lack of exposure and ignorance rather than malice or hatred that led him to feel that way and resolved to call him out on it if the subject came up again, which it didn’t.
So that situation definitely did lead me to question some of the merits of traveling stealth but I still feel the way I did before, just maybe with a bit less naivite. It’s certainly the case that not everyone is going to be ok with it but that was something that I knew before. It always feels nicer when you know where you stand with people ahead of time but for me, it’s still not worth that in exchange for having to be a trans representative and go into intimate details of my life for several new people every couple weeks. I don’t know if I’m wrong to continue going on believing that things will be fine and most people will behave decently if it comes to that but that’s how I feel and that’s how I would like to feel until proven wrong so that’s that for now I guess.
Le grand update, part 2 (December 2008)
Thursday, February 5th, 2009After Amsterdam, I headed to the intentional living community that had originally enticed me up from the south of France. In a word, it sucked. In two, it sucked hardcore. I would have left if it wasn’t for the fact that I had booked my ticket home out of Amsterdam so it would have been too much of a pain to find somewhere to go just for a few days.
It was like some sort of weird labor camp. The people would argue with each other all the time and they would call you out rudely on not working even if it was just for 5 minutes to go to the bathroom. It was actually so bad it was funny so that made it better. Plus there were enough “volunteers” there that we all could kind of just bonded over how much it sucked. The most ironic part was that they ran workshops on “nonviolent communication” but couldn’t even manage to get along with each other well enough to function on a day-to-day basis without arguing.
Eh, whatever, I met some interesting people and was only a bus ride from a nearby good-sized Dutch city so it wasn’t all bad.
And to round out the relative suckage of November and December, being home for the holidays wasn’t as nice as I had hoped it would be, didn’t even end up opening Christmas presents with my family but we had some nice moments too so overall it was good. Especially considering I’m probably going to be here for a few more months so it’s nice to have been able to see my family, if only to realize once again that we mostly get along better apart.
So that concludes, le grand update. Lots of not so awesome or adventurous things but I definitely don’t regret anything, I’m learning a ton and starting to figure some things out. More about that soon, hopefully.