Archive for the ‘1990 Volvo 740 16 valve Turbo’ Category

Installing Early-Style Moonroof

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

A while back, I purchased an early-style 940 moonroof for the excessively cheap price of $30. I finally decided to install it. The process consisted of two parts: the headliner and the physical installation.

1. The Headliner

Before:

I chose to use an early-style moonroof because the late-model ones require a different headliner. Sticking with the original headliner simplifies things because it is a more drop-in install. If you manage to find a moonroof with a clean interior sliding cover, and it happens to match your likely-tan 740 headliner, then you can ignore this entire section.

I, however, decided to black out my interior and the headliner. The first step was to prepare the sliding cover before I started disassembling my car because the cover will be installed with the moonroof. So, I readied it by stripping off the old material with a paint scraper and a stiff-bristled scrub brush. I then cut a section of my gorgeous black headliner material to match the size (leaving about 1/2" extra for the final cutting and fit). I then layed the material over the sldiing cover and folded the headliner over on itself in a number of ways to trace the cutout for the handle. I tried for about an hour to get the handle out without breaking the headliner and couldn't, so I found a workaround. The cutout for the handle was just larger than the indentation in the handle. I cut it out, layed it on, and then carefully pushed the edge of the headliner material under the lip of the handle using a flathead screwdriver. Any small, thin piece of metal or plastic will likely work in this case. After working my way around the handle to get a satisfactory fit, I sprayed headliner adhesive on the back of the headliner material and the cover, paying careful attention to add more around the edges where I believe the fabric will see more abuse. I let one half dry to tack and then spread the material onto the cover starting from the handle and working in a sunburst pattern from the center-line of the cover outward. I then repeated for the other side. I finally trimmed the fabric around the cover to complete the prep of this piece.

I then removed the station wagon's headliner by disassembling the trim around the roof of the vehicle and lowering the headliner out of the car. In sedans, this process is a bit harder. I have done it before by reclining the front seats completely and then rotating the headliner out of the passenger door. I have found that simply folding the headliner at weak points (ie the passenger side sunroof cutout and the sunroof motor cutout) helps immensely. Similar to the sliding cover, I stripped the headliner off and applied the new material. In this case, I placed a dot of glue in the center of the headliner and then worked outward to ensure that I didn't get any bubbling.

 

2. Headliner/Sunroof Removal and Installation

Getting the headliner out is a simple matter of removing the many plastic trim pieces that adorn the interior ceiling. They screw or snap on, so watch out if it seems like it is being stiff to come out.

 

The next order of business was to remove the sunroof. I recommend picking a day that will remain dry and keeping a tarp around in case (which is always a good idea considering how wet this summer was in Massachusetts). This portion is fairly simple. You just unbolt the old sunroof assembly and lower it out of the car. In addition to the bolts holding in the sunroof assembly, you also need to disconnect the water drains. I found that the front drains wouldn't come loose until I had lowered the sunroof and moved it back a few inches. I recommend having two people to do this job, but if you do it alone as I did, you can string a rope or ratchet strap across the inside ceiling to catch the sunroof when it drops. It is also helpful for positioning the new sunroof.

Installing the new moonroof was as simple as doing the removal process backwards. If your sunroof sliding cover is integrated into the sunroof as mine is, make sure you install that before putting the moonroof in the car.

3. Headliner recovering and installation

The longest part of this entire process was the preparation required for the new headliner material. After removal, I began to strip the old foam-backed fabric from the headliner. On my first car, the foam had deteriorated so much that this was a simple job. In this case, I worked for many hours trying to remove the old fabric. I found that the most effective method was to cut the foam every 3 inches and then use a windshield ice scraper to remove the foam. To clean up the left-over foam, I used a stiff-bristled scrub brush, a wire brush, and a razor. I cannot stress how important having a smooth surface is. If I could go back and do it again, I would spend even more time on prep work and would use course-grit sandpaper to get the headliner really smooth. I think it turned out well, but prep work is very key to a successful project.

*Unfortunately, I seem to have misplaced the pictures of this process. I'll post them up when I manage to find them.*

After removing the foam, it was time to glue the new fabric. I started by placing a dot in a logical location on the centerline of the headliner. I attempted to do small patches that then smooth away from the center to prevent bubbling. For the most part, it worked, but having a second set of hands would have greatly improved the process.

After finishing the gluing process, I cut the various holes in the headliner material. Regarding the sunroof cutout, you need to leave about a 1-2" border to the inside of the sunroof cutout to install the headliner correctly. If you are in doubt, don't trim this section until you have the headliner in the car.

Installation just happens like removal in reverse.

 

4. Enjoy your handiwork

After the headliner and trim are installed, hop in the car and enjoy the beautiful, refreshed headliner and moon roof.

 

Other than still needing to locate a couple black trim pieces and fasteners, my work here is done.

Enjoy, and feel free to contact me with any questions you might have.

Planning to sell the beloved 740 Station Wagon

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

Well, although I have very much enjoyed my 1990 Volvo 740 station wagon, I believe it is time to move on to other projects (hopefully with fewer doors and more cylinders). The car recently received gorgeous wheels and tires, which makes it heart-wrenching to sell (not to mention all of the time, effort, money, and bloody knuckles that have gone into this vehicle). It is now time. I have included some farewell pictures of the beast. Hopefully it will be sold in the next two months. If you happen to know anyone looking for a project car, this one is great sleeper. Faster than you would even imagine. See below for details and a mostly complete mod list

 

 The car is a 1990 Volvo 740 Station wagon. Originally it was an 8v turbo car, but it has a B234F+t in it now. The chassis has 171k miles on it, the engine is around 115k miles. I would like $5000 for the car. The price is $4300 if you don’t want the new wheels and tires or the Megasquirt. The car is located in Boston. I don’t think I will have the time to deliver it unless it is very close. I’m happy to ship it, so long as the buyer pays for shipping costs. It is a California car and has very minimal surface rust from living in Boston for 4 years. The total value of the aftermarket or custom parts comes to over $5500, and that’s just counting what I’m remembering off the top of my head. Most of those parts went in within the last 2 years. This car is quick, as you can see from the poor but representative videos I have posted below. I’m willing to negotiate and might consider a trade for a Ford Bronco plus cash or a 780 V6 plus cash. If you are interested, I’m willing to negotiate and do business.









Click links for photos
Additional photo galleries:
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...d=16&g2_page=1
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...g2_itemId=1595
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...g2_itemId=1609

A few recent running/driving videos:
These were taken at about 1/2 throttle (for acceleration vids).

http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170083.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170084.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170085.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170086.AVI



Engine:
1990 B234F (approx 115k miles)
New head and timing belt installed 100 miles ago - 1000
B204FT exhaust manifold
Turbo
2.5” Turbo-back exhaust
Runs LH 2.4 computers, has PnP MSnS setup prepared
Innovate LC-1 Wideband Oxygen sensor
Stock intercooler
HKS Blow-off valve
Oil cooler
Relocated oil filter
Electric fan conversion

Transmission:
Getrag 265 transmission
BMW 325i clutch
Stock Volvo pressure plate
eBay short-shift kit
Custom parts: bellhousing adapter plate, machined bellhousing, lengthened driveshaft, transmission mount, shift linkage/assembly

Suspension:
Intrax lowering springs
Stock shocks

Brakes:
Brake system just redone 50 miles ago
Cross-drilled front rotors
New rear rotors
PBR Ceramic pads all around
Hydraulic system flush

Interior:
Black interior
Black checkered cloth seats (gorgeous, they look new)
Nakamichi CD-500 CD player (plus wires for two amps)
Eclipse 5.25” coax speakers
Polk 6.5” coax speakers
780 radio support
BMW shift knob
Dave Barton boost gauge face

Exterior:
Mostly stock, paint could use a polishing
Borbet Type E 16” wheels
Yokohama Avid V4S tires
IPD side marker lights

Issues:
Dent in driver’s fender
Slight overheating issue when sitting in traffic on hot days, likely needs a new e-fan
Rough at idle, welcome to LH 2.4

About the 1990 740 Wagon

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

The car is a 1990 Volvo 740 Station wagon. Originally it was an 8v turbo car, but it has a B234F+t in it now. The chassis has 171k miles on it, the engine is around 115k miles.









Click links for photos
Additional photo galleries:
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...d=16&g2_page=1
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...g2_itemId=1595
http://www.cornercase.net/gallery/ma...g2_itemId=1609

A few recent running/driving videos:
These were taken at about 1/2 throttle (for acceleration vids).

http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170083.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170084.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170085.AVI
http://www.cornercase.net/misc/wagon_videos/P5170086.AVI



Engine:
1990 B234F (approx 115k miles)
New head and timing belt installed 100 miles ago - 1000
B204FT exhaust manifold
Garrett T3 (I think with the .48 A/R Turbine housing) Turbo
2.5” Turbo-back exhaust
Runs LH 2.4 computers, has PnP MSnS setup prepared
Innovate LC-1 Wideband Oxygen sensor
Stock intercooler
HKS Blow-off valve
Oil cooler
Relocated oil filter
Electric fan conversion

Transmission:
Getrag 265 transmission
BMW 325i clutch
Stock Volvo pressure plate
eBay short-shift kit
Custom parts: bellhousing adapter plate, machined bellhousing, lengthened driveshaft, transmission mount, shift linkage/assembly

Suspension:
Intrax lowering springs
Stock shocks

Brakes:
Brake system just redone 50 miles ago
Cross-drilled front rotors
New rear rotors
PBR Ceramic pads all around
Hydraulic system flush

Interior:
Black interior
Black checkered cloth seats (gorgeous, they look new)
Nakamichi CD-500 CD player (plus wires for two amps)
Eclipse 5.25” coax speakers
Polk 6.5” coax speakers
780 radio support
BMW shift knob
Dave Barton boost gauge face

Exterior:
Mostly stock, paint could use a polishing
Borbet Type E 16” wheels
Yokohama Avid V4S tires
IPD side marker lights

Issues:
Dent in driver’s fender
Slight overheating issue when sitting in traffic on hot days, likely needs a new e-fan
Rough at idle, welcome to LH 2.4

Getrag 265 Transmission Swap

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

This article is in the process of being written. Expect new pictures and an extended write-up in the next few days.

With the additional power provided by the turbo on the 16 valve engine, the stock Volvo transmission was just not handling the power. On cold days, if I tried to shift into 2nd gear, then I would be temporarily locked out of every gear (I found this out on a particularly steep hill). On top of that, the overdrive unit didn't engage reliably and I didn't want the transmission to randomly die on me. Since I had a Getrag transmission around, I decided to install it.

The Transmission

After a large amount of research, I started by measuring a bellhousing provided by a fellow board member from Turbobricks. I considered buying an adapter plate but decided to design and fab my own both for cost and the experience of designing everything myself. This is the adapter plate I designed.

 

In addition to the adapter plate, I ordered a centering ring (because I was not yet mill trained) to ensure that the input shaft of the transmission was appropriately placed in relation to the flywheel. A friend turned a bushing togo between the pilot shaft and the pilot bushing (spec). I also sourced a stock BMW sprung-hub clutch, which seemed to be a reasonable choice for daily driving. Also, because I didn't replace the pressure plate, I decided that I'd wait to go hog-wild with my clutch.

I also bought an M46 drive shaft and had it lengthened at (insert machine shop name here). According to another board member, I needed to add 8.25" in length on the front portion of the shaft. Though I would have preferred to measure this myself, I wanted the parts ready before I started the tear down. It turned out to be perfect (I probably could have afforded to go .1 to .25 inches shorter and all would have worked). One thing to watch out for it the condition of the pilot bushing in transmission-end of the shaft. Mine was toast and it needed to be replaced before I could have the shaft machined. The bushing is available from Volvo (part number 1209862, name: Guide bushing for driveshaft with standard transmission)

I then used a hole saw to cut the center section out of my new bellhousing to accept the input shaft of the Getrag. The test-fit showed that I was close with the design of the adapter plate, though I needed to take off about 1/8" from each hole to get the bolts to line up right. Drilling the bellhousing

 

After completing those pieces, I rented a garage from my friends and started to tear down the car. It took about 3 hours to pull the drive shaft, unbolt the the transmission, drop the crossmember, and unbolt the bellhousing. Everything went great until I reached the pressure plate. The pressure plate bolts were cap-head hex screws. Most of them came out nicely, but one of the bolts required some extra persuasion. Try as I might, I couldn't get the bolt out. I started to drill it out with the intent of taking out the remains with a stud remover when I had the inkling to hammer a hardened steel Torx bit into the hole in the cap head. To my surprise and luck, the bolt broke free after a few sharp hammer blows on the handle of my wrench.

I assembled the clutch and pressure plate onto the flywheel and then machined the throwout arm to accept the BMW throwout bearing. My first attempt at this failed and I had to cut a second one (of the later style Volvo throwout arms). Unfortunately for me, I had to remove the entire transmission to make this swap. After reassembling everything, I reattached my new driveshaft, got the clutch slave cylinder back in place, and upon pushing the clutch, blew a seal in my clutch slave clyinder. As frustrating as this was, I took the delay to measure for my modified shift housing and transmission mount.

I made the shift housing by cutting a stock housing and welding in two strip of steel to space the two halves the correct distance. I fabricated the transmission mount in situ by predrilling two pieces of mild steel with holes for the Volvo mount and the Getrag mount. I then welded them together in place to ensure a correct fit. This piece had supports added after the fact.

After fixing the issue with the throwout arm, I once again reassembled the car only to find that though I could start the car in gear with the clutch pushed in, I could not change gears. As it turns out, the stock BMW clutch is approximately 2-3 mm thicker than the Volvo one. To solve the problem, you need a custom-made pressure plate or a spacer. I made spacers out of stacked washers (ghetto, I know, but it worked). By stacking two 1 mm washers on each other, I managed to space the pressure plate the appropriate distance from the clutch in order to have it function. Upon reassembly, everything worked. The transmission shifts a bit "notchily" but feels very solid and never misbehaves.

More of fixing the head

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

After the catastrophic timing belt failure and my failure to install a camshaft correctly, I have once again reinstalled the head on my car.

Here's the lower head reinstalled on the car with the manifolds bolted on:

 

This is me applying the annoyingly expensive anaerobic sealant to the cam carrier:

I'll throw up pictures of the cam carrier installed soon.

 Eamon

 

 

Megasquirt’n'Spark on a 1990 Volvo 740 B234F engine

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Tunable Engine Management System on a turboed B234F engine in a Volvo 740 Wagon

(I hope to post the pictures for this writeup soon.)

This project was performed as the project component of an Olin Self-Study course in engine management for gasoline internal combustion engines. The project involved learning about engine management systems and then researching the MegaSquirt fuel injection and spark control computer. Information relayed in this website includes my experiences while replacing the engine management system in my vehicle and summarize my activites and accomplishments. I have omitted a number of technical details that are MegaSquirt specific because the number of variables I have learned in conjunction with this project will confuse a reader more than they will help. Please contact me via e-mail if you have questions regarding specific system variables and values. This page will be updated as the project progresses and changes.

Current Project Outcomes

To date, I have managed to learn about the history and current state of engine management systems, including fuel injection methods, spark delivery and timing methods, and tuning. I have gained a great deal of knowledge regarding the theoretical and practical application of engine management systems the use volumetric efficiency to run an engine effectively. I have specifically learned many technical details about the MegaSquirt fuel system and the MegaSquirt'n'Spark firmware. I have successfully installed the system on my car, worked to obtain an acceptable idle, and have obtained reasonable driveability of the vehicle in low-load, slow-acceleration states. The following provides greater depth primarily to the project component of my OSS.

The Vehicle

A 1990 Volvo 740 station wagon with a B234F block (2.3 litre I-4 w/ 16 valve head) was chosen to receive the new fuel injection system. A turbocharger has been added to the car using Europe-only Volvo parts, resulting an engine that was never produced. Previously, the car was controlled using a set of stock Volvo Bosch LH 2.4 fuel and spark computers. The fuel computer was obtained from a turboed, 8 valve model of the engine (the B230FT) while the spark computer was sourced from a non-turboed B234F. These computers use an air-mass based fuel calcuation to determine the engine state, as well as knock sensing and a narrow-band exhaust gas sensor to assist with spark retard and fuel enrichment. This system is robust because it can handle the addition of a turbo to the engine with reasonable results. However, because the fuel computer is specifically tuned for an engine with an 8-valve head, it is tuned for a lower air mass entering the engine for a given engine state. The spark computer has no provisions for a boosted engine and therefore does not advance and retard the ignition appropriately for this application, particularly in boost. The computers can function together because Bosch included a provision for the fuel computer to communicate with spark computer, allowing the output of the two to be corrected. It was therefore decided that the fuel and spark computers should be replaced by a more tunable option that will fit the nature of the car.





The System

A Megasquirt V3.0 fuel and spark computer running the MSnS-e 029t firmware was chosen. The system is responsible for controlling the fuel injectors and spark timing utilitzing the car's stock injectors (Bosch 29 lb/hr "green tops" common in late 80s to early 90s turbocharged 4-cylinder engines), coil, and distributor. The computer uses an on-board circuit that is responsible for firing the ignition coil, which negates the need for an external ignition module as was previously used by the LH2.4 system. Every parameter in the system can be tuned using either Megatune, the original Windows-based tuning software, or Megatunix, an open-source Megasquirt tuning software that is available for Windows, Linux, and MacOS. The firmware chosen is called MegaSquirt'n'Spark-extra because it handles fuel, spark, and a number of other functions including boost control, electric fan activation, and even launch control. For non-standard applications, firmwares can be rewirtten to meet the needs of each user. Because the system is highly tunable, configurable, is the least-expensive aftermarket fuel/spark upgrade option, and has a large community of knowlegable users, it appears to be the ideal system to place in a project car that is constrained by a budget.



Installation

To implement this system in my vehicle, I chose to integrate the fuel computer into my car using a self-built "plug-and-play" harness, that allows me to use the stock wiring harness from the original fuel injection and spark computers. This design choice was made because I wanted to ensure that I had a working system to fall back on while I performed this project. I worried that my inexperience with this system and lack of a physically present mentor with specific Megasquirt experience might prevent me from producing a completely working system in the given timeframe. The wiring harness does require a few non-plug-and-play additions in order to function, including an air temperature sensor, coil control wire, and O2 sensor power wires that were not available in the stock wiring harness. In addition to the MegaSquirt computer, a wideband oxygen sensor, which provides very high resolution when examining the oxygen content of the exhaust gas, was installed in place of the original narrow-band sensor. A potentiometer-type throttle position sensor also replaced the "switch-type" TPS originally used on the car. To provide a manifold air pressure reading to the fuel computer, a T-fitting and hose were placed in line with a hose controlling the turbo pressure gauge in the dashboard. No other hardware changes to the vehicle were necessary.

Below: Bosch LH 2.4 to MegaSquirt adapter shown next to stock fuel injection computer (to the left of the passenger foorwell)



Below: Bosch EZK-117 to Megasquirt adapter harness shown connected to stock spark controller harness (under steering column)



Below: Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 controller and sensor placement in exhaust downpipe



Below: Nissan Throttle Position sensor modified to fit Volvo throttle valve. This throttle position sensor does not have a large enough range and will be replaced by a different type.



Initial Testing/Startup

After installation, the system was tested for functionality by checking its startup behavior, including fuel pump and injector priming, as well as controller communications with a laptop PC. After these functions were verified, base fuel and spark maps with settings known to work in a 2.3 8-valve Volvo engine similar to mine were chosen. On the first startup attempt, the engine did start, ran very roughly, and was only run for about 15 seconds. During the second tuning session, the same settings were used. On startup, the car idled poorly and careful modulation of the gas pedal was needed to prevent stalling. It was discovered that the REQ_FUEL value, the value that states how much fuel is needed by the engine for one combustion event, was set to be approximated 33% above the suggested value, because the car that provided the base settings was non-turbo, and therefore had correspondingly smaller injectors. This value was enough to cause a serious rich condition that resulted in a large cloud of smoke and a poor idle. After this value was appropriately reduced, the car idled without issue. This also eliminated the rich condition. The idle of the car after this change improved significantly over the idle of the stock fuel management system; the car now smoothly idles at approximately 1000 RPM without a rich mixture, a noticable difference from the very rough and rich 750 RPM idle produced by the Bosch computers.

After the initial startup, the fuel table was slightly modified and the car was driven to test its performance. The engine was kept in a state of vacuum because the tables were only tuned up to atmospheric pressure. This testing revalead a few areas in need of attention, including the throttle position sensor, which only works over half of the range of the throttle valve. This will be dealt with using a new, known-working throttle position sensor and adapter plate. The car ran fine, but any attempts at fast acceleration resulted in bucking. However, very gradual throttle increase led to smooth performance up to 3000 rpm with the engine lightly loaded. Additional explanation is provided on the tuning explanation page.

Fuel/Spark Table Tuning

Tuning that I have thus far performed first includes setting my idle and startup parameters and modifying portion of my base fuel map that relates to idle. As stated in many tuning resources, the car should be tuned to have the lowest manifold air pressure possible at my idle RPM. This is essentially the point when the air to fuel ratio is set so that the least amount of total fuel is required while still protecting the engine at idle. This is evidenced by the fact that the least air is entering the engine when, for a given engine speed and throttle position, the pressure between the intake and the cylinder is the lowest. The goal also includes tuning the AFR to fall between 14.0 and 13.2 to 1. This is still slightly richer than stoichiometric, but will lead to cooler, more controlled burn to prevent valve and piston damage.

While this method of tuning is perfect for most engines, I took a slightly different approach to my idle tuning. I chose to tune for the smoothest idle first, and then optimize to get the lowest manifold air pressure afterward. This choice was made on comfort and drivability concerns. Before the installation of the MegaSquirt system when the engine in my car idled at a low RPM, it had a tendency to shake and buck. This is mostly the result of a highly rich condition at idle caused by the Bosch LH system running in open loop (not using the oxygen sensor to determine the proper air-to-fuel ratio) and employing presets that were determined for an engine different from the one in my car. To begin tuning, I chose to first find a reliable idle, regardless of air pressure in the intake manifold. I started by using settings from a non-turboed Volvo B23F engine, which is an 8-valve 2.3 litre engine similar to mine. The initial fuel map in the area of idle seemed to work well, as did the spark settings, but the engine still idled rough and ran rich. To improve this, I decreased the fuel multplier (REQ_FUEL) that relates the injector size to the amount of fuel that is injected. By reducing the REQ_FUEL value to one more appropriate for my injectors, I obtained an idle that is significantly smoother than the previous fuel computer.

To assist in tuning efforts, a fuel map from a similarly built vehicle was obtained. Differences between the two vehicles include a different ignition system and differently sized injectors. To minimize difficulties, the fuel and spark tables, as well as air:fuel ratio targets and wideband oxygen sensor values were the only parameters used, because these tables are mostly independent of other system variables. Additionally, most of the currently chosen values appear to function well. It is true that the buildup of tolerance causes the tables to be somewhat vehicle specific, but the table in question is from a dynomometer-tuned vehicle, which means that the tables are likely to produce positive results even if the values are not perfect for my engine.

The initial use of these maps produced an even smoother idle of the car and smooth operation through the RPM band while the engine was unloaded. The system did produce a miss when it was revved quickly, but this is likely because the chosen throttle position sensor was not connected. Because the system bases its acceleration enrichment off of the TPS, this part must be properly installed before other causes of the fast-acceleration miss can be investigated.

Quantitatively, the leaner fuel mixture at idle has caused an approximate 200 RPM idle increase while still decreasing the manifold air pressure. The exact value of this decrease was not recorded before a bad serial communication corrupted the MegaSquirt computer, preventing the car from starting. Once the firmware has been reflashed and the system reinstalled, the exact MAP value will be determined.

Additionally, the car was shortly driven off boost to determine the state of a small portion of the VE and spark tables. It was found that throttle response with two separate and very different sets of fuel/spark maps was poor, indicating that another factor besides tables needed to be considered. Once the throttle position sensor is reinstalled on the car, this issue will be investigated further.

The new fuel injection system also increased the performance of the engine by decreasing the time required for the engine RPM to decrease after the gas is released. The previous response time for the unloaded engine to decrease from 3000 to 2000 RPM was approximately 3 seconds. After implementation of the MegaSquirt, this time has dropped to about 2 seconds, indicating that the settings have improved the response time of the engine.



As I continue with tuning, I will perform tests to ensure that most of the volumetric efficiency and spark timing tables are appropriately tuned and then tune the acceleration enrichment settings to improve fast throttle response.

Below: A photo of me modifying parameters with Megatune



Problems

As with most older cars, a number of unexpected features were encountered during these modifications. First, it was discovered that the expected pinout of the fuel computer connector was slightly different than expected. This is partially due to the semi-standardization of these fuel computers, and partially due to poor documentation. Second, the +5v power wire to the throttle position sensor was some how non-continuous at a firewall junction. This problem was remedied by bringing a supplemental wire through the firewall to bridge the gap.

More importantly, during the most recent tuning session, I attempted to flash a new set of values to the controller, which resulted in nonsense bits being written to the Megasquirt computer. This occurance prevents the car from starting and does not allow communications to occur properly. To fix this problem, the firmware will be reflashed and the values reloaded so that testing can resume.

Future

This project has been performed on a vehicle that is most appropriately known as a "project car," implying that it is not finished and will continue to be improved and modified. As such, the fuel injection and spark system, though it is installed and, for the most part, functional, this project is far from complete. Although tuning the engine is an important aspect, the system will be used to control other additions to the car, including the electric radiator fan, on-board diagnostics, and turbo boost control.

The fuel injection is the centerpiece of my ability to continue modifying the vehicle because the function of the engine is directly related to the performance of spark and fuel delivery. As the engine is changed, the fuel system can be tuned to best use these changes for a performance or efficiency gain. Immediately performable modifications include new, larger fuel injectors that will increase the maximum theoretical horsepower support of the fuel system. Additionally, the ignition system will be modified to use "coil on plug," a type of ignition that completely removes the mechanical components responsible for spark by placing an individual coil on sparkplugs. This will increase reliability and tunability of the engine.

 

Update: 2009-10-12 - To include miscellaneous settings that I am using. I will include fuel maps when they become better.

Settings

Trigger Settings

Wheel Decoder Base teeth: 60

Missing Teeth: -1

Trigger pos A: 5
Trigger pos A return: 13
Trigger pos B: 35
Trigger pos B return: 43
all others: 0

Req Fuel: 12.6

 

Cranking/Priming Table

Pulse Widths (need tuning but it starts every time after a few cranks)

0 F = 8
20 F = 7
40 F = 6
60 F = 6
80 F = 4.6
100 F = 3.3
130 F = 3.0
160 F = 3.0

 

CLT Temp settings (stock B234F CLT, for EasyTherm, these values aren't perfect but are at least functional)

-25*C = 20000 ohms
50*C = 800 ohms
120*C = 110 ohms

IAT Temp settings (GM IAT)

-18*C = 12000
18*C = 2315
94*C = 250

 

Spark Settings

Trigger angle = 63
Trigger angle addition = 0

 

Other Materials

A thread about ignition settings on T-Bricks - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=183560&highlight=trigger


The Basics of Fuel Injection, Spark Control, and Tuning - A short description of how fuel injection, spark control, and engine tuning work for gasoline internal combustion engines

LH2.4 Partial Plug-and-Play harness pinout - WARNING - The notes in this file were meant for my eyes. A revised version with more specific comments will be posted when I am sure that my wiring harness is complete for this portion of the project.

Current MSQ File - Contains currently required settings (for MSnS-e 029t firmware) to run my Volvo B234F+t engine, currently on stock internals, stock intake manifold, B204FT exhaust manifold, (unknown type) turbo, Volvo 850 throttle position sensor, Innovate Wideband O2 Sensor, Bosch "Green-top" 29 lb/hr fuel injectors, stock Volvo ignition coil and distributor, stock in-tank and in-line fuel pumps, and a 2.5 bar fuel pressure regulator.

Helpful Online Resources and References:

Wikipedia - Fuel Injection: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection

Wikipedia - Ignition Systems: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_system

DIYAutoTune - Street Tuning your Megasquirt EMS - http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/street_tuning_your_megasquirt_ems.htm

Megasquirt homepage - http://www.megasquirt.info

Megasquirt forums - http:;//www.msefi.com

Turbobricks Aftermarket Engine Management Forums - http://forums.turbobricks.com/forumdisplay.php?f=21